Tuesday, March 26, 2024

Mythic Making Miniatures (Another HeroQuest Post)

 It’s happened! I have now officially painted all of the figures from the new HeroQuest “Mythic Tier” set.

The lone holdouts were two alternate “Abominations,” the dragon (excellent figure, this one), and three alternative heroes: The wizard (Mentor), the bard, and the warlock.

The final line up, in various stages of painting.

Duck, Duck, Duck, DRAGON!

Part of my delay was in trying to decide how I was going to paint the dragon figure. Although I had painted a dragon in the past, that was in 10mm scale (Games Workshop’s [i]Smaug[/i] figure for [i]Battle of Five Armies[/i], this would be my first time painting such a large miniature for HeroQuest’s nominal 28mm scale. Granted, Avalon Hill/Hasbro did a remarkable sculpture of this beast to have it both be huge and still be workable with HeroQuest’s grid system— the solution was to have the beast coiled around a stone plinth. It’s brilliant design, and a fantastic looking piece, so I wanted to do it “right.”




Green and bone, from all sides. Needs more work…

Although the adventure quest the dragon is designed for, “The Crypt of Perpetual Darkness” (by actor and game enthusiast Joe Manganiello), presents the dragon as black in color, I felt that was a little too restrictive for such a tightly sculpted figurine. I thought it would wind up as just a dark black mass in play— and I’m not good at highlighting, which would be absolutely necessary for such a color scheme. Red, too, seemed overdone… and Smaug was already my “red” dragon. So I wanted something different. The more I looked at the creature crouched upon his perch, the more my mind whispered “green”— a green dragon, of subtle appearance but ready to strike… yeah, that was just what it called for.

I’ll give you a few shots of it in progression. There was a lot of trial and error in this attempt. First I painted the plinth with a quick work of dark grey (and some gold on the engraved disks), mostly to give myself some definition to separate the monster from his mounting spot. I then went over it in “Evergreen,” the darkest green I have. This wound up looking too dark, and I settled on Kelly Green as a highlight color with a dry brushed first attempt— no luck on that. I also gave the horns, teeth and claws a coat of an ivory that I use on skeletons and paper or parchment decorations as book pages and scrolls.

Looking mighty green,,,

I wound up recoating much of the dragon in Kelly Green, and then using Evergreen to produce shadows and muscle crevices. I followed up with another covering of the plinth and the various discs and skull decorations on the same. Finally I gave the recesses, teeth and plinth a wash of very thinned black. I think the result, for tabletop purposes, suited my goals. I won’t win any painting competitions, but at arm’s length gaming distances, that dragon looks imposing.

Better…

A few more hits to go…

Also being painted through all this was Mentor, using a dark blue and gold scheme with a satin granite on his under-robes. (Although the Hasbro and even classic Milton Bradley art gives Mentor red elements, I prefer the subtler all-blue approach. Red is for the bad guys!)

And also the bard, which is sculpted as a half-orc for some inexplicable reason. I’m not a fan of this sculpt because I don’t like the half-orc as hero trope. For what it is, there’s a lot of humor in the pose, but it really doesn’t fit the dungeon environment of HeroQuest. At first I attempted to treat this as a human figure, thinking I’d use darkened skin tones. That was horrible, so I sucked in my objections, stripped the never-to-be-revealed disaster using alcohol wipes, and went with my stand in for orc green, “Seminole Green” (Why “Seminole?” Maybe a reference to the Everglades? Really dumb color name…) It’s a silly looking figure, with satin purple paints and a clashing light blue vest (“Cerulean”). But silly is what works for this. Again, on the tabletop I don’t care that much.

The Abominations were basic— dark blue and green coating, followed by light blue and light green drybrushing for highlights, then dark blue and green wash into recesses, and a black wash into the recesses among the tentacles. Teeth are ivory, and the tongues (if you could see them) are a dark red.



Everybody say “Zargon is a cheese doodle!”

“About FACE!”

That leaves us with the warlock. Again, I don’t care for the character, but the sculpt is a neat twist. This is either a halfling or a little girl who has made some pact with an eldritch entity of horrible aspect in return for some sort of corrupting power. As such, the figure works— an image of innocence with a huge creep factor, from the obsidian knife to the vile green claw. I wound up borrowing the purple and light blue elements from my bard— I assume these two twisted cases are good friends— with an overall sunshine yellow dress. I tried to use a dark wash on this— big mistake. She wound up looking like she needed a bath. I redid my color coats for the dress and the skin— the rest was fine— and used King’s Gold (a darker shade of yellow with a slight tan element) as my shadow wash. It’s okay. I may need to come back later with a darker shadow yellow.

The figure of Innocen… WOAH! What’s that CLAW?!?

And there were a bunch of other figs I finished earlier, including some additional orcs, goblins, skeletons, armored skeletons, female zombies and mummies, another Gargoyle, the NPC prisoner figure “Sir Ragnar,” a hero “druid(ess)” a “dread sorcerer,” a sorceress (possibly Kavra?), and the Witch Lord. (Note that the druidess has some green grass growing at her feet. Zargon’s gonna need some weed killer.

“… and the rest, here on Zargon’s Isle!”

But That’s Not All…

I’m not done with HeroQuest figures, because I keep adding expansion sets to the painting pile. On my shelf are The Frozen Horror, The Mage of the Mirror, Rise of the Dread Moon, and the latest addition, Against the Ogre Horde. Looks like I’m gonna be painting now for a while. Maybe I should stop purchasing more minis… what am I saying? That’s crazy talk!


— Parzival

Tuesday, March 12, 2024

Come Sail Away with Me PART II — Playing the Game

Sails Ho! Playing Armada for the First Time 

 

With my fleets out of dry dock, it was time to see how well the rules work. Although Mantic does offer some solo play scenarios on their website, I decided to play both sides straight myself, doing the best I could for each. I chose the introductory scenario from the rule book, “Maritime Patrol.” Although intended for the standard starter set of four ships each, I put all twelve of my ships on the board because what admiral wouldn’t? This scenario runs for 8 turns, after which damages, sunken vessels, and surrendered vessels are totaled to determine the victor. 

All the tools… (Well, the tokens are just one example of each.)

Precision Instrumentation for the Successful Navigator

Obviously, there’s more to Armada than just ships (and bases). The starter set includes:
 • 3ft x 4ft printed paper play “mat.” At the side midpoints and corners are elements of a compass rose. The edge is printed with alternating 6-inch bands, which helps set up. 
• Several full-color, die cut cardboard tokens and game implements: 
— 8-inch range and movement ruler
— “Ship Turning Template” guide for 30° or 45° ship turns, depending on a vessel’s capability
— “Firing Arc Template” guide for bow and stern guns (if any)
— “Wind Rose” wind direction marker (resembles a compass rose)
— Several tokens and markers: Activation, Speed, Identity, Blaze, Fired (cannon), Damage, Loot, Ship Upgrades. You’re gonna want a lot of baggies or storage elements for these.
— Islands, rocks and shoals and fog/storm pieces (one divided for some reason into quarters, perhaps to use on play area corners?). Printed double-sided for different elements.
— And a fancy Armada logo that I haven’t yet read a purpose for. 
• Ten-sided dice: 3 red, 3 blue, 3 black, 1 green 
• 2 six-sided dice with the Mantic Kings of War helmet logo instead of the six side (no in-game purpose that I can find— it’s just a fancy bit that counts as a 6.) 
• Ship Cards corresponding to each model, showing its abilities and other stats, and used to track damage and other game events. Although one Ship Card is needed for each ship, my set was short one card (for a “Basilean Gur Panther”). Fortunately, this was one of the damaged models Mantic replaced, so with that I received a card with the ship’s information. I noted the stats and played down one card. I’ll probably just scan this in and print a replacement. 
• A full cover, very thick Armada rule book. The cardboard tokens are thick and sturdy, and the art on all of these is excellent. 

My set came with additional laser-cut MDF upgrade tokens unique to the Basilean and Orc fleets. I would have liked for these to be printed cardboard, but that’s a minor quibble, as there’s really no need for these to be painted; they sit on the ship card, not the playing space. 

The play mat is a little disappointing— the color is muted and blurry, and it’s just thick poster paper, which won’t last long with repeated folding. Alas, it comes heavily creased, so smoothing these out isn’t possible. A neoprene mat is available from Mantic, and several third party game accessory companies sell “sea” print tablecloths. You could also hunt in a fabric shop/craft store for a blue mottle cloth. Or you can play on a bare tabletop; the play mat is just for looks. 

Ship Cards: Basilean Gur Panther, Orc Blood Runner.
Notice the “Turn Angle” symbol on the left. How is that bulky Blood Runner scow more maneuverable than the sleek Basilean vessel? Uh… magic?

The card art depicts an overhead view of a ship, showing its faction, name, weapons and their orientation, and lists the relevant stats: Point Cost, Speed (in inches), Nerve (the amount of damage the ship can take before its crew loses effectiveness) Structure Points (the amount of damage the ship can take before sinking) Crew Strength (for boarding actions). There’s also a “Turn Angle” symbol that indicates whether the ship uses the yellow 30° maneuver or the (much better) red 45° turn. You will have to find a spot on your table for each of these cards, as you will be placing damage markers and other tokens on them over the course of play. In my case, I simply had to leave them on top of the play mat, and moved them aside whenever the action came too close.

Wow, the Captain’s Log Could Be Ballast 

The rule book is, honestly, overproduced. But that’s typical for UK-based gaming companies who want to create a full-blown “world history” for whatever over-the-top generic fantasy factions they sell to eager gamers. Over half the book (49 pages out of 97) is therefore nothing but fluff, backstory and non-essential art. I’m not reviewing any of that. Read it if you like that sort of thing. The actual rules could probably be distilled even further; the remaining 48 pages contain numerous examples and illustrations, with lots of empty page space. So don’t let the book size daunt you; you can pick up the gist of the rules quickly, and look up special details as they arise.

Bit of a scrum today, Leftenant, eh what?

Just a Taste of Sea and Blood

Obviously, I couldn’t test all of the rules in a single setting. For one thing, the rules include both a basic movement method which ignores any wind effects, and a wind-based movement section with rules for tacking and speeds dependent on wind location. For simplicity’s sake I opted to ignore these for my first run through, though they aren’t particularly complicated (tacking is simply turning a ship to catch the wind). 

Also, different factions have different capabilities for their vessels, most of which are listed as “upgrades” with a point-based cost. You add upgrades (or not), increasing the point cost of the ship, and then you plan battles based on roughly equal point costs for all players. Again, for simplicity’s sake, I set these aside to try out later. Instead, I went with the barebones elements of the ships as listed on their ship cards— which, for the orcs at least, did indeed add some special rules, which will come up below.

Anyway the Wind Blows…

Initiative and activation in this game is based on two factors: The direction of the wind and crew experience. The scenario sets the direction of the wind, and after the first turn dice are rolled to see if the wind changes direction by one compass point (and only ever one each time). The compass rose wind marker is placed on the midpoint or corner from which the wind is blowing; in my case this was from the East, so the wind marker went on the midpoint of the Eastern side of the play mat. (The center compass rose on the map determines this orientation; for the photos, I was standing on the North edge of the map, so the wind is coming from the viewer’s left.) 

Ships then move and take actions based on their closeness to the side or corner from which the wind is blowing. For those of you who do know something about age of sail battles, this nicely simulates the tactical advantage of “having the weather gauge,” meaning being between the enemy and the source of the wind. In real life battles, this gave a sailing vessel an advantage in speed and maneuvering, and captains always sought to gain the weather gauge whenever they could. For Armada, this is simply to imagine a straight line parallel to the edge of the map from which the wind is blowing, or perpendicular to a corner if the wind is there. Move the line in your mind from the windward side to its opposite; whichever ship the line crosses first is the first ship to take action, and so on. If two ships are at equal locations with regard to the wind, then the ship with the more experienced crew activates first, or if both location and experience are the same, a six-sided dice is rolled for each vessel to resolve any ties. 

As a result of this system, any ship could wind up moving first (or last) on any given turn, and ships can be maneuvered to take advantage of the wind position— to have that important “weather gauge” on the enemy in a subsequent turn. (Note that “weather gauge” is not a term in the rules; but it is this concept which the rule clearly represents.) 

The “Gur Panther”, Speed 5, has moved one Movement Step of 5 inches.
Depending on its current speed level, it could move up to two more times (“Full Speed”).

Steady at the Helm

When a ship activates, it must move (unless it is anchored or grounded) shoot, and possibly take other actions. A ship completes all possible actions it can take, after which the activation passes to the next ship in the wind’s line. Movement, except for anchored ships, is mandatory. There are four speeds in the game: Full Speed, Battle Speed, Steady Speed, and Anchored. A ship at Full Speed must move at its Speed rating (on its card) three times. At Battle Speed this is reduced to two times, at Steady only one time, and when Anchored not at all. The player may declare that a ship will either increase or decrease its movement by one level when the ship activates and before it moves. If a ship wants to drop from Steady Speed to Anchored, it must still move once before doing so. Otherwise the ship’s movement drops or increases immediately as declared.

The Gur Panther has turned 30° to port, guided by the handy “Turn Angle Template.”
It could have turned less than 30°, but not more. The red side of the template, however, offers a 45° turn angle for more nimble vessels.

A single move of a ship’s speed is called a Movement Step. So, for example, my Basilean Gun Brig has a speed of 4. This means that at Battle Speed it will take two Movement Steps of 4 inches each. At Full Speed this would be three Movement Steps, and at Steady Speed only one. After each Movement Step, a ship may change its heading. The Maneuvering Tool is placed behind the ship’s base, and the ship pivots at the rear corners up to the angle allowed for that vessel. Afterwards the ship may continue to move (and maneuver) in the same manner until all Movement Steps are completed. Anchored ships can Maneuver immediately without moving, or before moving if the ship changes to Steady Speed. (Note that the above are for the basic rules, and ignore the effects of wind.) It’s a simple movement system that’s easy to use, but can catch the unwary commander off guard, especially in a crowded sea— always know where your ship is headed, and consider where the enemy is headed, too. Otherwise— CRUNCH— you may find yourself colliding, a bad thing for nearly all involved. 

 Collisions are generally discouraged, with colliding ships required to make an “Evade Test” (roll a d6) to avoid such things. If either side succeeds in this test, no crunching occurs. However, certain factions (notably, the Orcs are one) can opt to deliberately ram opposing vessels. In this case, they don’t roll; only the target can Evade. In this case, the Orcs have specially designed vessels which increase ramming damage against a target.

Everybody shoot everybody. The Orc Bombboat in the left center uses the Firing Arc Template to see if the distant Basilean ship can be targeted by the Bombboat “Indirect Weapon” (yes, it can).


Run Out Your Guns

The ships in Armada are universally armed with cannons, classified into four types: Light guns (doing 1 point of damage), Heavy guns (doing 2 damage), Close guns (doing 3) and Indirect Weapons (doing 1d6). They each have ranges, generally less range by damage type, though Indirect Weapons have the longest possible range (22 inches). Shooting is by rolling 1d10 for each weapon listed; results of 6 or better are a hit, natural rolls of 10 (or “0” on the die) are a Critical Hit which triggers a roll on a Critical Hit table for more damage and possibly extra effects (like being set on fire). Range and other tactical elements may modify the die rolls up or down, or sometimes both. Shooting is restricted by firing “arcs” to the fore, the aft, and the sides, and can only be made at vessels within such an arc. If only a portion of a vessel is within the firing arc, the chance to hit it may be reduced. If all of a target vessel is within an arc, and the target’s bow or stern is facing the shooter, the target may take extra damage from “raking fire.” 

Fire As She Bears

Typically, a ship shoots only after moving. However, the “Fire As She Bears” rule allows a vessel to attempt to shoot while moving or when a moving vessel crosses her firing arc, provide the latter vessel has not yet activated for the turn. In this case the shot is reduced in accuracy, and the vessel must note which guns have fired, as each cannon can only fire once per turn. (This is the closest thing the game comes to acknowledging the limited fire rate of muzzle loading cannons, a major consideration in the real world Age of Sail.) I didn’t use the Fire As She Bears rule in my test, though I should have; it’s a neat concept and my fleets would have benefited. 

Generally there’s a lot of chance to “exercise your guns” in the game. The ranges are sufficiently long that there’s always someone you can reach out and touch, though one has to be careful with one’s firing position… many times I thought I had a shot lined up, only to discover my movement had caused me to not have any targets within my intended firing arc— which I should have covered by declaring an FASB beforehand, but did not. Live and learn. 

The Orcs Expect Every Orc to Smash Everybody Else. Duh.

First Blood goes to the Basilean Gunbrig, with a Critical Hit on the Orc Hammerfist.


 So how did it play out? I began by maneuvering both fleets to try to seize the weather gauge and out flank the other. Very quickly I had a veritable scrum tracing along the Eastern edge of the mat. First blood went to a Basilean Gunbrig, with a well placed shot into an Orc Hammerfist. However, the shot (a lucky Crit) didn’t otherwise affect the target enough to cause any concern.

Most of the battle went this way, with ships pouring fire into each other with little significance aside from attrition of hit points. The Basileans did sink the sole Orc Bombboat— an indirect fire ship— for the first kill. I also declared two vessels “lost” when they sailed over the edge of the world— that is, the play mat— though the actual rules provide a method for return which I opted not to implement. 

“Stand by to repel boarders!” An Orc Hammerfist rams a Gunbrig, grapples, and starts a slugfest on deck.
(Upper left)

Getting In Close and Personal…

When an orc vessel found itself moving into the same Gunbrig, I decided to use the Ramming rules (the orc vessel being so equipped), and branched into the Grapple and Boarding Action rules as well. This resulted in the Hammerfist and the Gunbrig becoming immediately “Anchored” by the orc’s successful grapple attempt, and the crews fighting out. The Gunbrig had a Crew Strength of 2, while the orc had a Crew Strength of 4. Each side got 1d10 per CS value, with hits being the same as with cannon fire. (Honestly, I found this a little uninspiring. I was hoping for something more crew-oriented in terms of damage for a boarding action.) This went on for two more turns until the Gunbrig escaped (Huzzah!)… only to be sunk one turn later by an orc broadside (not-so huzzah). 

Oddly, there doesn’t seem to be a function in the game for actually capturing an enemy ship. A ship is either “surrendered” or “sunk”— and the surrendered status only means it’s out of the fight— it still apparently “belongs” to its original side; or at least, the rules don’t say differently. Apparently, you can still fight boarding actions on a surrendered ship, but there doesn’t seem to be much point in doing so, especially for the boarder. (The one exception is a single scenario where loot— “victory points”— can be claimed from a boarded ship.) Maybe this is supposed to reflect an attempt to recover the surrendered vessel for its original force, but if so, the rules don’t provide for this, or say what would happen if you do so (Can it fight? Sail off? Scuttle itself? The rules don’t say).

A battered Hammerfist lowers the colors, and managed to find an unsoiled hanky somewhere to wave instead. (Certainly counts as a miracle in itself.)

White Flags in the Sunset

Getting back to the fight, the Basileans were able to catch another Hammerfist away from its fleet, and multiple ships pounded it with their cannons, breaking its crew’s Nerve Rating (about ten hit points shy of its sinking), causing it to be “Crippled”— that is, less effective in its various efforts— and within another turn it surrendered on a failed Skill Test from this status, leaving it afloat but out of the fight. 

A few turns later it was all over. Final score was a whopping victory for the Basilean fleet, especially thanks to the surrendered vessel. I hadn’t bothered to count up the point cost before starting, but I discovered that technically the Orc fleet far outclassed the Basilean fleet in strength, yet I never noticed this in play. Perhaps if I had attempted more rams or boarding actions, it might have made a difference. But the cannon fire seemed about equal throughout, and the Basileans were taking lumps too… just not as many as the Orcs suffered. 

“Time!” The battle ends. Now to review the tab.

Aside From the Eye, How was the Battle, Horatio?

Armada plays quickly, and even using the basic movement rules there’s a definite “sailing” feel to it all, thanks to the ingenious Wind rule. The rules were generally easy to understand and I was up and playing quickly with only a cursory read. I was a bit disappointed in the rules compared to the ships. The orcs had two ships with some funky ramming weaponry— the Blood Runner, with a prow like a giant wood screw, and the Hammerfist with what looks to be a ridiculous spinning pair of huge metal fists. But in play these amounted only to a +1 and +2 ramming damage advantage, respectively, without any other consideration of what the rams resembled. I call that somewhat unimaginative. However, I acknowledge that additional “specialty” rules for these implements might have been kludgy and slowed things up. In some ways, though, I’d rather they’d have toned down the silly on the ship models than leave me with a milquetoast +2 damage as the design effect. If you’re gonna go for silly fantasy, own it! Make the enemy fear the fists and be wary of the screw. The ramming rules really didn’t set that up. 

Similarly, the prow of the top Basilean “Elohi” ship features a massive figurehead bearing a fiery torch— painted with magical blue flames in the Mantic rulebook art, and mentioned in the ship fluff as being divine in origin. What do these mystical flames do in the game? Absolutely nothing. 
Boring. 

At least give us something like the fabled Byzantine “Greek Fire” flamethrowers (seriously— their early medieval ships carried frickin’ flamethrowers!!!), or some sort of magical affect. Yes, the ship card mentions a “Halo of Light” ability, tied to some Basilean upgrades, but even so there’s little tie in. As is, the design is disappointing (not to mention fragile for the model— that ‘spear of fire’ will snap in two if you sneeze on it). 

Shall We Set Sail Again, Captain?

Despite my criticisms above, I like this game. I’m pleased with the look of the ships, and the game play was engaging and entertaining. The rulebook offers some scenarios which introduce sea monsters and other aspects, so hopefully that will dial up the fantasy levels. I’m looking forward to introducing Armada to friends. There are some other factions I’m eyeing (the Dwarf fleet has armored, steam-powered vessels reminiscent of American Civil War ironclads— hard to pass up on that!) So it’s been a winning purchase for me, and I expect to play it repeatedly. What more can you really ask than that? 

Game Rules & Play

Rulebook: Clear and easy to follow. Way too much fluff, but the fluff doesn’t overly intrude into the rules themselves. 
Accessories: Top notch, although the paper play mat is lackluster. 
Game play: Good sailing feel. Plays quickly, easy to jump right in and know what you’re doing. Needs a little more variety and imagination among the starter forces’ ships’ abilities. The “fantasy” is a little low. 4 pennants out of 5. 
Over all product rating: 3 1/2 pennants.


Saturday, March 9, 2024

Come Sail Away with Me: Mantic Games’ Armada Starter Set (Part I)

Beat to quarters! Run out the guns! Splice the main brace! And other clever sea-like sayings!

That’s right, you lubbers, Parzival is going to sea… at least, on the tabletop.


My latest long-procrastinated project has finally come to completion— the assembly, painting and playing of Mantic Games’ Armada.

Sail Around and Shoot Something!


Back in the early heyday of Games Workshop they produced and sold a number of excellent smaller tabletop miniatures games. One of these was Man-o’-War, a game of fantasy combat on the high seas. Though it was well received and highly praised by enthusiasts, the powers that be at GW decided to sink this one, apparently never to return. (A few years back, they did release a one-shot called Dreadfleet, which alas should have been sunk at the launch— pricey, hard-to-build models, and a game system that was… well, better off fed to the fishes than actually played.) I always wanted to play MoW, but it vanished in the ‘90s (and from what I have been able to ascertain, the original rules files were somehow lost. Or at least, that was the excuse).


So when Mantic announced the release of a very MoW-like game of their own, I was intrigued.

A few years back, I picked up a two-player starter set from a vendor at Nashcon, started putting it all together, even painted some of the elements, and then for whatever reason set it all aside. This month I decided to break it out again and finish up my efforts, sticking to my guns (hey, possible a nautical military term?) and get everything ship-shape and Bristol fashion.


The Armada starter set features two small fleets (four ships each) featuring sailing vessels of the Orcs and the “Basileans”— basically a Renaissance human analog culture with some religious fanaticism baked in (not that the Renaissance didn’t already have that). I don’t bother much with the fluff on these games. If you’re a Mantic fan, you’ll know these, if you’re a GW fan you can figure out any imitation, and if you’re just a sea dog who wants a silly game of fantasy combat (like me), you won’t really care. It was good enough to have some suitably orc-ish ships and some suitably human ships, and leave it at that.

The game elements of Armada (well, minus the ships).


Do Drydocks Come With Glue?


Let’s have a look at the ships.


My fleets face off… but forgot to add water…
Well, clearly this a fantasy game, the biggest fantasy being that any of these designs would even float, much less be viable sea-going vessels. If you’re hoping for any level of reality in this game, look elsewhere; Mantic snuck up behind reality, coshed it with a marlinspike, and tossed the unconscious victim overboard to the waiting Kraken. The orc ships look like a kid’s fort hammered together out of junkyard scrap and mom’s torn tablecloth. The Basilean ships look more ship-like, if ship-like means “I saw a picture of a sailing ship once, from a distance, for about six seconds.” But hey, like I said, it’s a silly fantasy game, and there’s a certain appeal to these things, and they certainly hit the sweet spot of “don’t worry about rigging and stuff; just paint me and get on with the cannon fire.” So if you accept them on those terms, you’ll be fine.


What scale are these things, you may ask? Well, you can keep on asking. The size of the ships, the size of the cannons and other, uh, “weapons”, and the sails are completely out of whack. Some of the ships are mounted with mortar-like cannon that nobody of a size small enough to actually stand on the deck could possibly lift the ammunition for, much less raise it to the height of the muzzle to load the thing. “Scale” it appears, is currently floating alongside “reality.”

But let’s make it easy: The ships are scaled to fit on a roughly three-and-a-half by one inch base, with a peak mast height of about four-and-a-quarter inches. Give or take a millimeter, just to mix up your measuring stick. And that’s all the “scale” you’re gonna get.

Fleets in progress— the orcs are completed (mostly), and are back near the box. The “Basilean” ships in this photo are currently in various stages of painting and assembly.


The ships are cast in resin. Alas. I really don’t like resin; it often has miss-castings resulting in poor details and open bubbles or holes in the figure, or missing sections. Fortunately, these were limited or unobtrusive for the Mantic ships, but other problems were not. Some of the orc vessels came with separate masts, which had curled up like macaroni. Mantic recommended the boiling water and cold shock treatment to correct these bends. I tried that—it didn’t work. Plus, the resin masts were very brittle, snapping easily during assembly. Also, one of my models came with the wrong sails for that model. I contacted Mantic about these issues and they kindly sent me replacement ships at no charge— big applause for their customer service team. 

Interestingly, the problems with the mast must have been noticed immediately, as the new models had masts integrated into the sails rather than as separate pieces— no bending, no risk of snapping. I don’t know if this was a change made across all models, but I suspect it was— it was absolutely necessary, too. Notably, the entire Basilean fleet uses this integrated mast design; only the orc ships did not.


I wound up abandoning the resin masts altogether for the orcs, replacing them with cheap bamboo skewers cut down to size. I figured the rougher look (if anyone notices) will be put down to typical orc workmanship. In any case, the skewers are stronger and unlikely to break with normal handling.


The other problematic ship was a Basilean vessel which lacked a bowsprit assembly. Again, Mantic sent a replacement ship, but I used a toothpick to replace the bowsprit on the original as well.


The Basilean fleet in dry dock, with the bases having their first coat of color. The rough outlines are where the ships will be glued to the bases, as I’d rather they be glued to the enamel primer than the acrylic paint; less likely to break off.


As a result of Mantic’s customer service and my own ingenuity, I thus wound up with two fleets of six ships each, instead of four! The Admiralty was very pleased, and medal was struck for such frugality. (Okay, no medal— just a happier customer.)


I think the set I purchased must have been an “early days” product, possibly from the initial crowd-funded release of the game. In addition to the faulty or missing ship parts, it was also missing a ship base (cut my own out of a flat wooden ruler) and a “ship card”— an essential element for game play (more about that in Part II).


Why We Buildin’ ‘Em This Way, Skipper?

An oddity of the model designs is that several elements need to be glued into place that looked to me like they could have been just molded directly to the ship hull. Not sure what the point of that was— there didn’t seem to be any functional reason to mold them individually. Maybe Mantic just wants to reach those customers who like the idea of having “built” something? I say leave that for Lego. I want to get to playing, not gluing on purposeless bits.

Another problem were the orc lateen rig sails— the glue points to the masts were very small, and the revised masts came in two pieces, again with a very small glue point. The result is  more fragile than it should have been. (I’ve already had to re-glue one of the masts, twice.)


Polish ‘Em Up, Lads. The Admiral’s Got a Spyglass.

The Basilean “Elohi” ship, painted and based, with the sails to be added next. Note the figurehead’s high bowsprit/torch thingy. This one broke, and was glued back in place (the wrong way. Oops). Ah, well. At least the two ships look different now.



Painting really wasn’t all that difficult. As I was going for a Good Enough To Game With, Arm’s Length View, I went with basic color schemes: dark brown and red for the orc hulls and sails, with bronze bits and cannon, plus a little “gunmetal” dark steel on some other metal parts for variety, and bronze on the sculpted “axe” symbols on the sails. I gave everything a black wash, and called ‘em done.

For the Basileans, I used a bright blue (“True Blue”) color for the sails, golden brown hulls and decks with blue cabin roofs or taff rails (the railings on the “poop” deck), bright yellow  for windows and lantern glow. I used a duller gold for cannon and the sail symbols (again, sculpted in place and very hard to paint because of this— gaps in the sculpting were as tiny as a half millimeter, nearly impossible to get a brush into). A bright “Radiant Gold” became the dominant color of the figureheads and filigree. I finished up with a little “Nickel” for the mast loops and a wash of burnt umber over everything but the sails and the filigree— the latter got a black wash to give depth to the gold.


The bases I simply hand painted— white primer, with a cerulean blue coating, followed by brush strokes of a dark “uniform blue” to create the look of waves and a little bit of ship wake. I should have looked more closely at the colors of the printed paper play mat that came with the set, which was lighter colored than I had thought it to be, but looking at it all at tabletop view, the exposed bases are small enough that it still works together fairly well.


And now for some beauty shots of my two fleets. Look closely and you can see the mast and toothpick replacements. For the record, the starter set does NOT come with all of these ships, though it does have at least one of each. They are currently sitting in the upside down lid of a shoebox, held in place by rubber cement so as to prevent shaking about. The box itself serves as their storage cover, until I can work up a better solution.






Rating the Ships:

Appearance: Definitely fantasy, over-the-top design, no appreciable scale. Forget realism.

Material: Resin. Brittle. Masts and other long, thin elements don’t hold shape. Minimal bubble/gap eras. Some detail lost. Glue points on orc sail/mast elements are too small, resulting in easy breakage.

Ease of painting: Except for some of the heavily sculpted areas (the Basilean sail emblems, deep-set windows), paints well with minimal effort, looks good when done.


3 pennants out of 5.


Stay tuned for Part II, in which your intrepid blogger plays the game.